To honour the predominant colour of Valentine’s Day, here are some notes on eight reds that have been sitting on my computer for a couple of months (the notes, not the wines). Six hail from South Africa, a traditional bastion of value wines. All are available at the LCBO.
Cusumano Nero D’Avola 2017 ($13.95) (Sicily, Italy)
Highlighting the most widely planted red grape in Sicily, this Nero D’Avola can be found on many wine raters’ value lists. A little herbal and menthol on the nose, with black cherry, plum, blueberry and raisins carrying through to the body. It’s a tad chalky and a bit of a tannic grip at the end, and the finish doesn’t exactly pull up a chair to linger that long, but it’s still a decent bang for the buck. But don’t drive a corkscrew into it too quickly, as it actually comes with a fitted glass stopper beneath the wrapping! 87
Big Easy Red Blend 2016 ($14.75) (Stellenbosch, South Africa)
I generally love Ernie Els’ wines as much as his silky golf swing. This entry-level version? Not so much. This stew of 60% Shiraz, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cinsaut, 5% Grenache, 5% Viognier and 3% Mourvèdre opens with a lively, ripe, plummy nose and a silky initial sip, but loses all its momentum after that, with a finish that runs away like a frightened squirrel. But for under $15, one can’t complain too much. Pair it with pizza or burgers. Probably not the ideal choice for Valentine’s Day dinner. 86.5
Reyneke Organic Red 2017 ($19.95) (Stellenbosch, South Africa)
Quite a distinct organic blend here of 89% Shiraz and 11% Cabernet Sauvignon that smells like it was made on top of a bonfire, coating the inside of the glass with smoky, rubbery notes. It was created with a wild, spontaneous fermentation in a combination of concrete tanks and stainless steel, with 25% of the wine spending eight months in older oak barrels. Remember Master Sommelier Ian Cauble’s famed description of freshly cut garden hose in the movie Somm? That’s here too, along with notes of spice and black pepper. Inside the glass there’s a smooth flowing collection of reductive black cherry, violets and plums. But, man, that bonfire! 88
MAN Family Skaapveld Shiraz 2016 ($14.95) (Coastal Region, South Africa)
The fruit here seems inauthentic. Chalky baking chocolate, under-ripe red currant, stale black cherry. Not much of a backbone, with a short finish and lingering aftertaste. Having had a chance to sample the open bottle a day later, it was definitely smoother—I should have decanted it the first time around. But the various pieces still never quite come together. 86
The Vinecrafter Cabernet 2017 ($9.95) (South Africa)
Made by KWV, one of South Africa’s oldest wineries, there’s a nice wet forest floor mossy nose and a little menthol to this mid-weight Cab, along with cassis, blackberry and red currant, but the palate doesn’t possess the depth of the nose. Decent finish, but nothing beyond that. It might not have the body to stand up against a roast or a robust steak, but for $10? Man! Line up the wedding wine orders! 87.5
Casa Silva Gran Terroir de Los Andes Los Lingues Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($19.95) (Colchagua Valley, Chile)
Although age-worthy, this high-altitude, beautifully structured Cab has some quaff-worthy succulence to it right now. A complex soil base has clearly contributed to its juicy elegance and concentrated notes of black cherries, dried plums and dark chocolate. An outstanding value here. Tell everyone it was $40—they won’t know the difference. 92
Rustenberg RM Nicholson 2016 ($14.75) (Stellenbsoch, South Africa)
Another brilliant value from South Africa. Crafted from 50% Shiraz, 30% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, this blend was barrel-aged for 16 months. The result is an umami-like savouryness of black cherry and blackcurrant up the sides of the palate, with woodsy herbs and spice complemented by great texture and great length—the Bordeaux varieties providing the structure and the Shiraz adding a fruity softness to the finish. A double gold medal winner at last year’s Top 100 SA Wine Awards. 89.5
Sutherland Pinot Noir 2015($19.95) (Elgin, South Africa)
This is a cool climate-styled pinot. A little barnyardy and leathery on the nose, along with charcoal, red currant, cranberry sauce and raspberries, all held in place with midweight tannins. Fresh and nice acidity, but there’s just enough tartness that’s it’s not quite as expressive as I’d prefer. 88.5
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