Many wines are better with food. I think that’s the case with both of these releases at the LCBO—particularly the first offering from Emilia-Romagna at the neck of Italy, with its bright acidity providing huge food-pairing flexibility. Not that I’m gonna push away an unaccompanied glass in either case!
Umberto Cesari Liano Sangiovese Cabernet Sauvignon IGT 2018 — Emilia-Romagna. Italy ($27.95)
Word has it that writer John Grisham was so taken with Liano during a 2005 trip to Bologna, Italy, that he mentioned it in his book, The Broker, calling it an exceptional wine.
The nose of the 2018 vintage suggests a rich, smoky blend of 70% Sangiovese/30% Cabernet, with dark red and black fruit and a note of mint chocolate cake on the nose. But in the glass it is more subdued than expected—medium+ tannins and medium+ in body, with black cherry/sour cherry on the palate and a lively acidity. Ideal with a cheese platter, charcuterie or spicy pizza. 13.5% alc. 89
Raymond Classic Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 — California ($17.95)
A little short of full-bodied, this cabernet features grapes from three different prominent regions in California: Napa (70%), Sonoma (24%) and Lake County (6%). There’s some eucalyptus in the background along with black cherry, plum, blackberry and vanilla notes. In the glass it’s built for broad appeal—medium tannins, not too dry, dark and juicy and easy drinking with a decent finish. A safe pick to bring to a dinner party. Just don’t expect too much complexity at this price point for a Cali Cab. Pair it up with gourmet hamburgers. 88
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