My March reviews include a pair of value-packed Ontario wines, two refreshing whites and a unique Aussie Cabernet to watch for this weekend.

 

Torrevento Matervitae Falanghina 2017 (Puglia, Italy) ($11.95)
Recently released at the LCBO, this understated dry white, an ancient grape with a long history in Southern Italy, shows a herbaceous nose of under-ripe pear, green apple, orange blossom and cut grass/lemongrass. Its subtlety can make it a bit of a tough pairing. Light cheeses and shellfish are likely good bets. But its steely smooth texture and modest 12% abv also make it an ideal summer sipping wine. Very good value for the price! 87

Chateau Tertre de Launay 2017 (Entre Deux Mers, Bordeaux, France) ($15.95)
And easy-sipping, engaging, minerally Bordeaux blend of Sémillon (45%), Sauvignon Blanc (35%) and Muscadelle (20%), the latter of which adds aromatics, smoothness and depth to this affordable offering from Bordeaux’s Entre-Deux-Mers region. Its subtle citrus, green apple and tropical fruit notes, supported by a sturdy mineral backbone, should give it a pretty wide appeal. Drink now and pair it with seafood or green salads, or sip it on its own. 87.5

Creekside Laura’s Red 2016 (Jordan, Ontario) ($22)
I tasted this not long after it was first bottled, but glad I sampled it again last week. Pieced together from a great vintage, this Bordeaux-styled blend, consisting of 28% Syrah, 28% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec, has really settled and evolved in the bottle in a short time. Featuring an earthy richness of black cherry and blackberry, there’s a solid balance of acidity, tannin and 13% alcohol that will make it quite age-worthy. But this edition of Laura’s Red was also designed to be very drinkable in its youth. And it has clearly hit a sweet spot. (As a rule, I recommend that wine enthusiasts purchase Ontario products directly from the winery, but this one is $3 cheaper at LCBO than the winery). 91

Powell & Son Riverside Grenache/Mataro/Shiraz 2016 (Barossa, South Australia) ($26.95)
The Down Under version of a Southern Rhone GSM (the Mataro grape is Australia’s Mourvèdre), this pops in the nostrils like a stewed blend of raspberries, strawberries and goji berries. Rose petals and menthol complete the engaging aromas in this full-bodied Barossa Valley creation. There’s more of that dense red berry compote coating the smooth, very rounded palate. But the 15% ABV is not entirely integrated and can waft up the glass at times. If it integrates over time—and this vintage can certainly cellar for eight years—it could easily jump to a 91. 89.5

Vineland Cabernet Franc 2017 (Vineland, Ontario) ($14.95)
A base of blackberry, blueberry, plum and soft bell pepper with an acidity that seems amped up from last year’s plumpier version. There’s a definite sense of place to this medium-bodied Twenty Valley work of Vineland Estates winemaker Brian Schmidt, who seems to do value-packed Cab Franc in his sleep. Vineland has held steady to the $14.95 price tag for at least six years now. 88

Cathedral Cellar Shiraz 2015 (Western Cape, South Africa) ($17.95)
Alluring aromas of smoke, herbs, wet cedar and ripe (almost overripe) blackberry, but there’s a bit of a graphite taste that clings to the top of the palate. An interesting wine, but probably overpriced at $17.95. Barely squeaks in at 87.

Quieto 3 Malbec 2014 (Mendoza, Argentina) ($17.95)
I really like this nose of this Mendoza Malbec—a juicy blend of rich red fruit and herbs. A little age has softened the palate and rounded the edges of the vibrant fruit, with only a little sweetness poking through. There’s not an immense amount of depth, but it should be a universally appealing sort of wine. 88

Lungarotti Rubesco Sangiovese/Colorino 2015 (Umbria, Italy) ($19.95).
Released last week, this medium-bodied ruby red boasts lovely aromatics of blueberries, strawberries and a hint of violets. Well balanced with silky tannins, its Lungarotti’s most popular wine worldwide. The finish lacks the spark of the original kiss, but it’s still a solid Sangiovese blend. Pair it up with spicy pasta, lasagna or medium-aged cheeses. 88

Wakefield Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (South Australia) ($24.95)
Remember those dark chocolate After Eight mints? That’s the first thing the nose encounters, with basil, dark cherry, cassis and cigar shop tobacco following close on the heels to this deep purply crimson, extra-dry Cabernet. There less chocolate in the taste mix than last year’s vintage and more complexity. The fruit for Wakefield’s Jaraman series is sourced from Australian wine regions renowned for their particular variety. Here, the Clare Valley’s ripe fruit has been well married to the silky, minty character of the Coonawarra. Should make a great lamb pairing. If you prefer sweet, jammy Cabs, this will be too herbal for you. But if you’re looking for something complex and a little different, watch for it in LCBO stores March 16. 90