It’s winter, so the ratio below favours warming reds. Here are five affordable wines available at the LCBO, including two brand new releases and one outstanding value.
Stemmari 2017 Nero D’Avola (Sicily, Italy) $14.95 (New release)
I love the earthy dark cherry nose, but the fruit seems a bit restrained on the palate as it phases into black cherry, pomegranate, plum and prune, and sort of a cured leather/wet tobacco aroma hovering in there. A bit astringent on the finish. Do you like sweet chocolaty fruity California cabs? Then you’ll probably dislike this. But while it’s not really a sipping wine, this big red should pair well with grilled red meats, particularly a bacon cheeseburger. And having had a chance to revisit the bottle on Day Two, it was at least a point higher. So this is definitely one worth decanting to soften the edges. 87
Mezzacorona 2017 Trentino Pinot Grigio Riserva (Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy) $17.95 (New release)
Leans more toward the vegetal and mineral than fruity side, although there’s also notes of melon, peach and lime zest to tickle the tongue of this dry white. While there’s a nice fresh acidity, there’s more weight and depth than a typical Pinot Grigio, thanks to the bulk of it being fermented in small oak barrels. A bit bitter to finish but not unpleasantly so. 87.5
Schild 2016 Grenache/Mourvèdre/Shiraz (Barossa Valley, Australia) $19.95
There is a distinctive gamey nose and taste to this meaty, plummy red blend—the barnyardy aroma of which happily dissipates (although not entirely) with time. There’s decent fruit here too—red currents, strawberries and plums, with a splash of pepper overtop. I don’t inherently dislike “gamey” characteristics, but this package doesn’t quite come together for me, and I wouldn’t consider it a traditional crowd-pleaser. 86.5
Primus 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley, Chile) $19.95
Cedar, herbs and a little dusting of allspice covers an earthy concoction of blackberry, blueberry and stewed plums. It’s well balanced, but the oak seems to have muted the fruit. This is a really hard one to call. Nobody at your party is likely to hate it, but it probably needs a steak to make the chemistry work. 87
Cono Sur 2018 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere/Syrah (Colchagua Valley, Chile) $13.95
I’m trying sooo hard not to let the price factor in to this review, because I’d be into the 90s if that were the case. Half Cabernet Sauvignon and one-quarter each of Syrah and Carmenere, this is a symbiotic relationship at a value-packed price. Commencing with a complex nose that ranges from blueberry through the red berry spectrum, with mocha coffee and white pepper, this medium-bodied blend is well pieced together with equal parts bright acidity, tannic structure and ripe red fruits. And you can also feel good about drinking it since it’s an organic/biodynamic wine. Pair it up with a charcuterie board or cheese platter. 89
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