Here’s a pair of crowd-pleasing new releases at the LCBO that includes one of my longtime favourite reds and a newcomer white.
Nielson Santa Barbara County Chardonnay 2021 — Santa Maria Valley, California ($29.95)
Under the umbrella of Jackson Family Wines, Nielson is celebrating 54 years as the first commercial vineyard in Santa Barbara County. The grapes are sourced from the Santa Maria Valley. Fanned by ocean breezes, it’s one of the coolest AVAs in California, yet with one of the longest growing seasons in the world. That makes it easy for winemaker Anna Clifford to both keep the wine fresh and to pick her grapes on these steep slopes at the preferred level of ripeness. The longer the hangtime, the more tropical the notes and flavours. That variance is evident in this wine, with green apple, lemon and herbs on the nose, but with a bright pineapple and honey prominent on the palate. A strain of salinity sews it all together. Sixty percent of the wine is aged in neutral oak barrels, with the rest in steel, so there’s also a careful balance on the structural side, providing a smooth texture while still ensuring nice acidity. (For what it’s worth, Nielson lists the abv. at 14.5% while the LCBO calls the alcohol at 14.1%.) 90
Peter Lehmann The Barossan Shiraz 2020 — Barossa Valley, Australia ($21.95)
This has become a go-to Australian Shiraz for the money. While the 2020 vintage marks the third dismal year in a row for grape growers as far as yields are concerned (roughly half the traditional harvest), it’s another stellar year for quality in the Barossa Valley. The fruit here is ripe and concentrated—dark cherry/raspberry/plum/blackberry—with distinct notes of mocha and cedar. It’s a plush red wine, with an abv. of 14.9%, although it doesn’t come across as nearly that hot on the nose, while flowing elegantly across the palate with its smooth, medium tannins. The screwcap makes it an easy party opener. From an aesthetic standpoint, the silhouette of legendary Aussie winemaker Peter Lehmann, who passed away in 2013, appears on every bottle in the winery’s portfolio, but I love the classy textural treatment it’s given on The Barossan. 91
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