I’ve been on a Pinot Noir kick of late, looking for something interesting that wouldn’t wear out my palate. Moderate alcohol and juicy acidity, but with flavours and aromas way beyond the mere fruit.

An easy lateral step to tantalize my tastebuds are this week’s two Chiantis—slightly bigger bodied, and definitely more rustic. Highlighted by the trademark black rooster on the bottle neck or label, I’m not sure if any wine conjures up a sense of place more than Chianti Classico in the heart of Tuscany—spices, balsamic, earthy and herbaceous, with a hint of nearby olive groves. It screams Italy—especially with its heavy base of Sangiovese grapes teeming in drooling acidity, making it a great food-pairing wine.

This year, incidentally, marks the 10th anniversary of Chianti Classico’s Gran Selezione tier. This is this top of the pyramid in the district’s wine designations, representing just 5% of all Chianti Classico production (but 13% of its overall revenue). Seeing “Grand Selezione” on the label means the winery has used the best grapes from its own vineyards, with a minimum 80% Sangiovese in the mix (increasing to a 90% minimum beginning with the 2027 vintage). It also means a minimum of 30 months of barrel aging.

Long gone are the days when most Chianti we saw at the liquor store was second-rate, price-busting wine that you’d traditionally find in those round-bottomed, wicker-encased bottles. It’s a much different story now, with the Classico region carefully delineating manufacturing and growing standards, while increasing its UGAs (sub-regions), which allows different wineries to include their distinctive growing areas on their label.

Here are a couple to keep your eye on from Castelli Del Grevepesa, the largest Chianti Classico collective with more than 120 winegrowers under its umbrella.

Castelgreve Chianti Classico Riserva 2019 — Chianti, Italy ($23.95)
Here’s a very strong vintage of this new release at the LCBO—one that featured extreme summer heat, guaranteeing ripeness, but with that distinct, light powdery tannic grip. It’s bright—both in deep ruby colour and taste. “Reserva” on the bottle means at least two years of aging. “Classico” means at least 80% of the grapes are Sangiovese and that it’s from the heart of Chianti county. Distinctly Chianti Classico, it’s medium bodied, with medium alcohol (13.5%). The fruit is a salivating, ripe dark cherry, with herbaceous, earthy forest floor and baking spice notes. If you like your reds big, bold and syrupy, maybe skip this one. But if you’re craving something interesting and authentic, it’s a solid value. Flexible with main courses, pizza or appetizers. Drink now or hold a couple years. (3 g/L sugar) 89+

Clemente VII Chianti Classico Gran Selezione 2019 — Tuscany, Italy ($36.95)
This Gran Selezione releases March 16 at the LCBO. It’s medium+ in body with an herb-infused, dried black cherry nose, accompanied by eucalyptus, rose petals and olives. The tannins are drying, but more in an elegant dusty fashion, as opposed to a cotton-mouthed pucker. There’s more of that deep, dark, dried cherry on the palate. This has the stuffing to last—it needs another year or two in the bottle to release its rustic grip—and could get much better with time. (14% alc. and 3g/L sugar) 90