As the saying goes, “It’s 5 p.m. somewhere.”

The grapes for Morandé’s Gran Reserva Carménère are grown on the vaunted San Bernardo estate above the Maipo River, at the foot of Chena Mountain (background).

Similarly, as we find ourselves mired in the dead of winter in Canada, it’s nice to remind oneself that it’s always summer somewhere too. So with my first review, let’s celebrate Chile, which is just a month away from beginning its 2023 wine harvest!

Morandé Gran Reserva Carménère 2020 — Maipo Valley, Chile ($18.95)
Bearing just 2.5 grams of residual sugar, this new release at the LCBO is a full-bodied red with vibrant dark fruit overtones and the hot pepper spice one typically associates with Carménère. The grapes for this wine come from the Maipo Valley’s San Bernardo estate, which is where Morandé sources grapes for its premium wine, the award-winning House of Morandé. There’s 16 months of oak aging here, but that only tells part of the story. While 20% of the wine spends that time in traditional 225-litre oak barrels, the remaining 80% is aged is huge French oak foudres that range from 2,000 to 4,000L capacity! Keep in mind that the larger the oak container, the less the wine actually interplays with the oak. The result is a nicely rounded, dense wine, with aromas of spicy red pepper and cinnamon meshing with blackcurrant, prune, blackberry and blueberry. In the glass the tannins are velvety, and the 13.5% alc. in control. Pair it up with hamburgers, sausages, young cheeses and dark chocolate. Not quite as smooth as last year’s vintage, and $2 more than last year’s price tag, but still an excellent value. 89

Passion of Portugal Red Blend 2020 — Lisboa, Portugal ($11.15)
Bearing a new label, this juicy blend of Syrah, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Barroca receives no more than four months of oak aging, keeping it medium-bodied at most and lively on the palate. The fruit leans to the dark red side—red currant and raspberry, with fig and vanilla notes, and 11 g/L of residual sugar infusing it with a slightly sweet yet tart taste. Tannins are medium. The finish is on the short side, but hey, this is pretty quaffable hamburger/pizza wine for just $11.15. And to think it was under $9 until recently! 86