Do you speak Spanish? Well Tempranillo and Carmenère sure do. And here are two great—albeit entirely different—examples of wines that those grapes can produce. And you won’t need a translator to appreciate either.
Morandé Gran Reserva Carmenère 2019 — Maipo Valley, Chile ($16.95)
Chilean wine generally offers exceptional value, and I do have a fondness for the floral, spicy greenness of their Carmenère. And this new release at the LCBO this weekend is an excellent example. The fruit is ripe and dark—blackcurrant and prune. But it’s the non-fruit notes and flavours that make this grape distinct—vegetal, green pepper and twiggy with an herbal waft of damp forest floor. It’s aged 14 months in huge 4,000 litre French foudres. The size of these casks keeps the oaky flavours to a minimum, while adding body and complexity to the wine. This 2019 edition was included among the Best of Maipo Andes Valley by noted Chilean wine guide Descorchados. The alcohol registers at 14.5%, but it’s really well concealed. The 2022 edition of my annual Best 36 Wines Under $18 is still about six months away, but I expect this wine to be on the list. 90
Lealtanza Gran Reserva 2011 — Rioja, Spain ($32.95)
A rare opportunity to purchase a quality 10-year-old wine at this price. All that maturing has served it well, buffing the once-edgy tannins down to pure elegance. It’s perhaps a hair shy of full-bodied but sophisticated through and through. The nose reminds me of mid-October forest floor, with wet leaves and moss leading the way. There’s also a little leather added to now-subdued raspberry and wild berry fruit. Decant for a half-hour to get the best of it. 92
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