My previous post highlighted 36 of the best wines you can purchase at the LCBO for less than $18. The first one below will probably make next year’s list.
Fantini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo — Abruzzo, Italy ($16.60 for a 1.5L bottle)
I often say that at this price point I instinctively look for negatives before positives, as they tend to be pervasive. But this is a delightful Trebbiano from Italy that impresses for the start. Pale straw in the glass, green apple nose, light to medium-bodied, with a palate-cleaning lemon/lime/grapefruit crispness. But there’s a smooth delivery of the zesty contents that surprises, possibly owing to a strong 2020 vintage. If you like the subtlety of Pinot Grigio but the refreshing bite and body of a Sauvignon Blanc or Portuguese Vinho Verde, you’re probably gonna like this one, whether you’re patio sipping or pairing with salads and seafood. And for the equivalent of $8.30 per 750ml bottle, it’s really hard to go wrong. 88
Château Peyros Vieilles Vignes Madiran 2016 — Southwest France ($23.95)
I spend a lot of time writing about value-packed wines under $18, but there’s value to be had at multiple price points, and this red from Southwest France’s Madiran appellation at the foot of the Pyrenees definitely qualifies. Released earlier this month, this is a blend of Tannat (60%) and Cabernet Franc (40%). (The region actually mandates at least 60% Tannat in their reds to earn the official Madiran AOC designation on the label.) If you’re unfamiliar with Tannat, it’s a big, powerful red grape extremely high in antioxidants. And it’s not like Cab Franc is any slouch itself. Despite the vintage being 2016, there’s piles of youthful exuberance still inside the bottle, so if you want to cellar it another few years, no probs. But if you want to uncork it now, decant it. And then here’s what to expect: a nose that reminds me of a wet forest floor on an October night—minty herbal, mossy, alive. In the glass, it’s a deep shade of purple/garnet. In the mouth, it’s full bodied, with thick black cherry/blackberry leading the fruit side of things, with leather and tobacco notes now adding to the equation. They’re accompanied by a healthy but smooth coating of tannins (primarily owing to the sophistication of the winemaking and old vines). It all begs for a lamb or steak pairing, or old cheeses that require a muscular match. 91
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