An assortment of wines from New Zealand’s Villa Maria lead the parade of this week’s reviews, as well as some near-misses from this year’s Best 36 Wines Under $18.

Villa Maria Private Bin East Coast Chardonnay 2019 — East Coast, New Zealand ($17.95)
This is a new one for Villa Maria at the LCBO, and a very near miss from our annual Top 36 Wines Under $18 list. It’s the first time in almost three years that the LCBO has listed a New Zealand wine in the general list category other than Sauvignon Blanc. And of the roughly 70,000 cases of New Zealand Chardonnay in Canada, 68,000 come from winemaking giants Kim Crawford and Oyster Bay. So it’s refreshing—figuratively and literally—to see a different one hit the shelves. Grown in the the Gisborne/Hawkes Bay regions of New Zealand’s North Island, it’s a fruit-driven medium-bodied nature was bolstered by a hot, dry 2019 vintage. There’s also a faint buttery aroma, owing to the slight oaking. But if there’s some weight to the nose, the maritime influence on the vineyards helps ensure plenty of acidity, while some indigenous yeast fermentation adds complexity. This wine lives at the slightly chilled mark. 89 

LeftField Sauvignon Blanc 2019 — Nelson, New Zealand ($19.95)
There’s the passionfruit and lemongrass that one typically associates with New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, but there’s also a strong herbal, stemmy, vegetal nature that makes this version distinct. Fleshier and a little lower in acid, thanks to the sunny, dry Nelson location, it’s an ideal pairing with prawns and lemon juice. 87

Villa Maria Private Bin Pinot Noir 2018 — Malborough, New Zealand ($19.95 on sale for $16.95)
There’s really not much everyday New Zealand pinot noir at the LCBO, but thankfully this reliable Malborough pinot is one of them. A sparkling ruby in the glass, it’s smooth, not too tart, with notes of vibrant cherry, strawberry, raspberry, cranberries, goji berries—ok, I know, I mentioning a lot of berries here—clove and roasted coffee beans. I think this wine continues to improve vintage over vintage. 89

Anthony Joseph Vidal of Hawkes Bay Reserve Syrah 2018 — Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand ($24.95)
Part of the LCBO’s Destination Collection, it’s mostly available online and at the LCBO’s New Zealand store at 1838 Avenue Road, Toronto. You don’t see a lot of New Zealand Syrah here—there are maybe 300 cases that make their way into Canada through all suppliers—but, seriously, you’d never go to New Zealand and not taste the Syrah. A gold medal winner at the 2019 New Zealand Wine of the Year Awards, it received one year in French oak, and most of that was pretty neutral, so there’s really not much messing with the fruit here. This well-priced Syrah—from the esteemed Gimblett Gravels appellation—boasts alluring notes of wilting violets, plums and other dark red berries, with a silky, elegant palate. But it’s at its best when paired with food (think roast beef, venison or hard cheeses). I might give it another year or two to hit its stride. 90.5

Anthony Joseph Vidal of Hawkes Bay Legacy 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot — Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand ($70)
A gold medal winner at the Six Nations Wine Challenge last year and recently released through LCBO Vintages Classics, there were just 250 cases made, with perhaps 40 of those available to Canada. The blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, aged 20 months in French oak, is all hand-harvested and hand-pressed and only produced in great vintage years (2013 being the previous one). Bursting with life, with well-balanced tannins and acidity, the nose if one of ripe plum and blackberry drizzled over cedar, with cinnamon, cloves and herbs backing it up. It’s great now, but it screams “Leave me alone for at least five years.” 93

Mezzacorona 2018 Pinot Noir — Trentino, Italy ($14.95)
Light tannins and a little concentrated for a pinot, but not sweet and well-crafted for the price. A little nighttime forest floor adds a layer to a nose that calls to mind fresh plums and black cherries. Pair it up with charcuterie or soup and a sandwich. 87

Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio 2018 — Trentino, Italy ($14.95)
Light and crisp but still smooth bodied, there’s some minor citrus notes here, but mostly green apple dominating the palate. Consistent quality from vineyards that are surrounded by the Italian Alps. 86

Stemmari Rosé 2019 — Sicily, Italy ($13.95)
Sustainably farmed and produced from indigenous Sicilian Nero d’Avola grapes, this soft pink-hued rosé was another near miss to our annual Top 36 Wines Under $18. Very dry to those nose, with a decided mineral backbone, there are light underripe strawberry and raspberry notes, but some body too, thanks to the wine resting on its lees for four to five months after fermentation. Better suited for food pairing than sipping—with matches including salads, as well as vegetables and white meat without too much spice—but fine on its own too. Exceptional bang for the buck. Serve it in the 11C-12C range. 88

Trapiche Zaphy Organic Chardonnay 2019 — Mendoza, Argentina ($11.95 on sale for $10.95)
A bit thin but with mouth-wateringly high acidity makes it un-chardonnay-like in many respects. But its refreshing lime/Granny Smith apple-forward character makes it quaffable, if unmemorable. 85.5

Monasterio de las Vinas Gran Reserva 2013 Red Blend — Cariñena, Spain ($18.95)
This mix of Garnacha, Tempranillo and Carignan has been aged for two years in oak, with an additional three in bottle before release. And then a little while longer before arriving on LCBO shelves. Just for the opportunity to taste the complexity of a 2013 wine for $18.95 that hasn’t fallen apart is worth it, particularly given the complex flavour profile that seems more about earth and tertiary flavours and aromas and less about the actual fruit (think “cherry slate.”) 88

Chateau le Grand Moulin — Bordeaux, Franc ($17)
A Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, this is serious value. Pretty much purple in the glass, it’s quite dry and full-bodied with dense, ripe blueberry and blackberry fruit. Tannins are medium to strong, but this is a meaty red with a long finish. Expect this to make next year’s Top 36 Wines Under $18! 90