We’re playing Crazy Eights in this week’s reviews. Seriously—all but one rating falls in the 88-89 range, including one or two that will likely crack my 2020 Best Value list.

 

Yalumba “The Strapper” 2016 (Barossa, South Australia) $19.95

I sampled this value-packed red blend (mostly a mix of Grenache and Shiraz with a splash of Mourvèdre thrown in) at two different temperatures and was reminded what a difference the proper serving temperature of wine can make. At room temperature, the 13.5% alcohol felt more like a vapourous, vigourous 15%, the fruit on the palate rather waterty. But properly chilled at around 16C, it was a much different wine. There’s a balanced attack of fruit—strawberry, plums, currants—and secondary aromas of spice and cedar. Overall, both the nose and palate are still more restrained than you’d find in a typical GSM blend you’d encounter from Rhone, France, but it’s still good value. And vegan-friendly. Interestingly, Yalumba is no longer making this wine and has replaced it with a GSM blend from its new Samuel’s Collection, a Barossa Valley series that pays homage to the winery’s founder, Samuel Smith. 88.5

 

LAN Crianza 2016 (Rioja, Spain) $16.95 on sale for $14.95

Quick Spanish wine lesson: When you hear Rioja, think “Tempranillo-based.” And Crianza? That’s a Spanish wine classification indicating a wine that has been aged for at least two years, with one of those spent in oak casks. In the case of this Tempranillo, LAN’s most famous wine, that aging began with stainless steel tank fermentation, followed by 14 months in hybrid oak barrels, followed by nine more months of bottle conditioning. The result is a mid- to full-bodied red whose aromas initially cling for dear life to the bottom of the glass. But eventually notes of spicy plum, smoky dark red cherry, stewed strawberry, vanilla and cinnamon can be coaxed up the glass, all framed by medium tannins. Super value year after year. 88

 

J. Lohr 2018 Riverstone Arroyo Seco Chardonnay (Monterrey, California) $19.95

A midweight Chardonnay that benefits from a slower, later, more controlled ripening than recent vintages. The nose pops with orange juice and orange rind, Granny Smith apple skin, apricot and butterscotch. There’s a notable oakiness atop the palate on the finish, despite only eight months of oak aging, but with only a 50% malolactic fermentation and a brighter-than-expected acidity, there’s really a nice balance happening here. The 14% alcohol surprised me, as there wasn’t much evidence of that from nose through palate. Pair it with roasted halibut. 88

 

J. Lohr Seven Oaks 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles, California) $23.95

The LCBO notes this Cabernet as the most popular red in its Vintages Essentials collection. To me, that often means high alcohol, stupid chocolate sweetness, too fat and too much oak. But this one is different, as J. Lohr advances to a more complex expression in its Seven Oaks line. And 2017 was a great vintage—with more rainfall and less drought—yielding “a higher level of sugar and flavour ripeness since the great string of vintages from ’12-’14,” notes the winery. The 82% portion of Cabernet Sauvignon has been opened up and augmented with a blend of 8% Petite Sirah, 5% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Syrah. There’s a cocoa aspect, but it’s measured and complements notes of red and black cherry, blueberry, leather, coffee, wet forest floor and a sprinkling of cedar, with the tannins pretty smooth. Ya, there’s lots going on for $24. Good hostess gift for a dinner party, since it’ll please most red wine anthusiasts. It should cellar for a good five years, if that interests you. Pair it with mushroom risotto and lamb. 89

 

Villa Sandi Pinot Grigio 2018 (Veneto, Italy) $12.70

I’ve heard this called pale straw in colour. It’s not. It’s lighter, with faint flecks of green. Look up an “M”-coloured diamond and you’ll get a better idea. What’s more important, of course, is what’s in the glass. And if you like bold, tropical fruit, well, you might want to skip this one. If you prefer light and understated, this might be a fit. Look for a wet stone minerality and vague notes of white flowers and apples and limes. The strength of this crisp and dry white is its quite rounded texture—it’s got some pretty notable legs for just 11.5% alc., which points to the body of this light wine, although the palate is still thinner than I’d like. It’s a decent patio wine, not so much because of its affordable price point and refreshing nature, but because the spring and summer heat warming your glass will coax out those subtle flavours and aromas, which are overly concealed when chilled. 86

 

Villa Sandi Il Fresco Prosecco (Treviso, Italy) $15.95 on sale for $13.95

This is one wine that Villa Sandi does really well for the price. Although quite a pale straw in colour, there’s a bit more fruit than you might think in this bubbly, dry mousse, including cantaloupe, pear, golden apple, peach, with some minerality. A tiny bit sweet, but the acidity and tight bubbles holds it in check. And at just 11%, it’s dangerously drinkable  Pair it with shellfish and asparagus, fresh fruit, or simply as an aperitif. They sell this in half-bottles for $10.60, which I wish more bubbly-makers did, but the full 750 ml bottle is on sale right now for just $13.95! 88