I’m not sure if there’s a bad invitation on the wine tasting circuit. But there’s a handful that I particularly anticipate. One such example comes courtesy of Woodman Wine & Spirits. The Toronto agency’s annual taste-and-buy preview of the latest vintage from Burgundy (2017 in this case), by definition, entails some of the finest Pinot Noir and Chardonnay I’m likely to come across in any given year.

Headlined by Beaune, France-based Bouchard Père & Fils, which has been producing wine for 273 years, you will always spot wine-writing heavyweights and some of Toronto’s top sommeliers and restaurateurs at Woodman’s event—this edition of which was held last Thursday at Montecito Restaurant on Adelaide Street. Wines ranged from Bouchard’s $22 Bourgogne to the famed Chevalier-Montrachet, a Côtes d’Or Grand Cru Chardonnay that rings in at $513. (Woodman actually distributes a $1,054 Montrachet, although that one, understandably, was not available for sampling.)

The 2017 weather conditions were kinder to Burgundy than the two previous years, which pretty much punished winemakers with everything short of a plague of locusts. Yes, a two-week spell of frost contributed to about a 40% plunge in yields in Chablis for the ’17 vintage, but the quality, fortunately, remained first rate. To be honest, the top-end wines didn’t really suffer with the 2015 or ’16 vintages either. But what the more balanced 2017 conditions did produce, with ripeness and acidity both achieved in abundance, was slightly better quality in the lower and mid-price ranges of the Villages and Premier Cru wines.

“It’s also a vintage with good definition of the terroirs,” notes Luc Bouchard, Export Director for Maisons et Domaines Henriot, which, in addition to Champagne Henriot, owns both Bouchard Père et Fils and William Fèvre Grands Vins de Chablis. “And you don’t need (to wait) 10 years before drinking the 2017 wines. They will age nicely, because they are nicely balanced, but they are inviting right now.

“The whites are a richer style, but we kept good acidity—more than in 2015,” adds Bouchard. “They are concentrated, but not fat at all. They are vibrant. At Fèvre in Chablis, we are very happy with the wine—a very classic style of vintage—clean, pure, mineral, concentrated. It’s just a much smaller crop because of late-April frost.”

Even the most inexpensive red wine on display Thursday, Bouchard’s $22 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, showed well.

Experiencing the region’s Villages and Premiers Crus is a good way to sample the vintage, Bouchard explains. “Grand Crus, like Chevalier-Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne and Le Corton, will always be at the top, whereas on the Villages level, there’s more up and down movement according to the vintage,” Bouchard says.

Can Bouchard cite a couple from that mid-range that particularly impress from the 2017 vintage? “Gevrey-Chambertin ($77),” was the first off his lips—a silky, complex Pinot that also blew my socks off from Thursday’s lineup. “There was also a great opportunity for Premiers Crus like Beaune du Château ($66), which is a blend from our estate,” Bouchard added. “We harvest and vinify each parcel separately—some bring more finesse, some bring more fruit, some more structure—each with its own character. We’ve been producing that wine for more than 100 years, so it’s a signature of Bouchard. And in ’17 there was a wonderful opportunity to offer great complexity. It’s a good representation of Beaune Premier Cru.”

For the whites, for ’17, we have a wonderful Meursault ($76). It’s silky but not heavy. We have different parcels—some higher on the hill that provide freshness, and some below that give more richness, so there’s a nice balance.”

Here’s a trio of Bouchard’s most affordable, best-valued wines on display from last Thursday, as well as another trio of recommended wines in the LCBO.

 

REVIEWS

Bouchard Père & Fils 2017 Bourgogne – Burgundy, France ($21.95)
A soft, balanced Pinot Noir with notes of forest-floor mushrooms and ripe (almost jammy) cherry-strawberry mix. Soft tannins and only hints of green or tart attributes make this a highly sippable Burgundy. 88

Bouchard Père & Fils 2018 Macon-Lugny Saint-Pierre – Southern Burgundy, France ($21.95)
Another value-laden, well-rounded wine here. Quite aromatic with pear, apples and nutty notes wafting up from the glass. There’s a bright acidity to this creamy, midweight, dry Chardonnay. Serve with seafood, chicken and better cheeses. 88.5

Villa Ponciago 2017 Fleurie La Réserve – Beaujolais, France ($27)
This Gamay tends to be a favourite of mine for the price point. A fruit-forward perfume of blueberry and rich cherry, but well balanced in its acidity. The texture is lovely—it seems a bit richer than last year. There’s also some minerality as it unfurls. Good pairing for roasted chicken. (Available through consignment at Woodman Wines & Spirits.) 90

Babich 2018 Sauvignon Blanc — Marlborough, New Zealand ($17.95)
They call it a classic Marlborough Sauv Blanc, but it’s not—it’s better than that. Softer, a little weightier, but filled with ripe tropical fruits to go along with that lemongrass/gooseberry/subtle lime zest finish—all providing a mouthwatering acidity. There’s even a little earthiness to add to its complexity. Such a steel at this price. 89.5

KWV Cathedral Cellar 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon — Western Cape, South Africa ($16.95)
Minty, herbal, earthy, plum, blackberry, with a dose of graphite. Not too heavy, and boasting a wealth of acidity. Good winemaking here, with a bit of a French twist. Excellent value. Match it up with braised beef or ribs. 90

Wakefield 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon – Clare Valley, Australia ($19.95)
This deep, purple-tinged garnet Cab shows some classic Clare Valley characteristics: ripe fruit matured in the heat of the day, and fresh, eucalypt-laced blackcurrant/blueberry fruit and juicy acidity owing to the region’s slow-ripening, cool night breezes. Fresh cedar and tomato leaf add to the nose, while a complex palate of dark fruits lingers on the finish. It’s all supported by a smooth tannin structure that has benefitted from two extra weeks on the skins from some parcels of grapes. Pair it with lamb chops or steak.(Available Sept. 28) 89.5