As with seemingly everything else in the world, the price of wine has escalated since the COVID-19 pandemic rolled around, with shipping charges accounting for most of the increases. But rest assured that there are still some very good bottles to be found for those inclined to mind their pennies. With eight much appreciated contributions from the foremost expert in Niagara wine, Rick VanSickle, here’s TheLushLife.ca’s 2023 collection of those beloved bangs for the buck—40 wines under the $20 mark that represent superior value at the LCBO.

SPARKLING

Bottega Vino dei Poeti Rosé Prosecco — Veneto, Italy ($15.90)
Such a delightful bubble firmness and persistence to this sparkling rosé—a blend of Glera and Pinot Noir grapes. Salmon pink in the glass, there’s a light strawberry and white peach on the nose, while thankfully staying dry (12 g/L) on the palate and finishing strong. 11.5% abv. 89

Villa Sandi Valdobbiadene Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore — Veneto, Italy ($18.95)
A friendly reminder that “Extra Dry” is actually sweeter than “Brut” sparkling wine. But the 12 g/L of residual sugar here is still only one percentage point above qualifying as Brut. The steep slopes of the Valdobbiadene represent some of the finest soils for Italian Prosecco, and it shows in the smoothness of this fresh bubbly. Golden apple, cantaloupe, lemon rind and tropical citrus all have active roles in the play, while a moussey blanket smoothly conducts the flow. 11% abv. 89

WHITE

Casas del Bosque Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2022 — Casablanca Valley, Chile ($18.95)
From the coldest sector of Chile’s Casablanca Valley (Las Dichas) comes this aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, featuring a complex nose of bell pepper, herbs, passionfruit, grapefruit, green apple… heck, there’s even some pineapple in there! Bright acidity, as you’d expect from this grape, but still with plenty of flavour and great length. 90

Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2022 — Stellenbosch, South Africa ($18.95)
Is it possible to have a white that is steely smooth with a mineral thread, but at the same time is rich and ripe? The folks at Ken Forrester seem to have long ago mastered the trick. This big, lovely textured white offers notes of melon, pear and apple pie, with caramel and vanilla owing to its aging on the lees and eight+ months of oak aging (only 20% of which is new oak—and seeing as the wine is aged in huge 400L barrels, there’s not that much oak influence anyway). Ken is pretty famous for this wine, so it’s really worth trying if you haven’t experienced it yet. 90+

Henry of Pelham Riesling 2022 — Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($15.95)
Like Vineland Estates, Henry of Pelham has also mastered the art of making great Niagara wines for a reasonable price. From the “Classic” tier at HoP, this Riesling has a fresh and saline nose of racy lime, lemon and green apple notes. There is a touch of sweetness on the palate and vivid notes of citrus, fresh picked apples and peaches, with a vibrant, fresh finish. 88 —Rick VanSickle

Henry of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc 2022 — Niagara Peninsula ($15.95) 
A friendly and vibrant style of SB with a nose of kiwi, honeysuckle, grapefruit and pear. It’s fresh yet rounded on the palate with a lovely melange of grapefruit, melon, kiwi and pear, with a vibrant finish. A delightful white at a good price point. 88 —Rick VanSickle

J. Lohr Riverstone Arroyo Seco Monterrey Chardonnay 2020 — California ($19.95)
There’s life to this Monterey County Chardonnay, with a ‘driving-through-a-Florida-orange-grove-with-the-window-down’ sorta citrus fragrance, with oak and lemon butter swirling below. The sur-lie barrel aging provides silky texture, but an orange rind on the mid-palate helps keep it from tasting flabby. The wine’s name, incidentally, comes from the stones beneath the loamy soil of the vines, deposited over thousands of years by the Arroyo Seco River. “The unique combination of sandy loam and cobblestone-laden soils keep the vines’ canopy growth and fruit in balance while the cooling winds off nearby Monterey Bay extend the growing season,” the winery notes. Pair it with shrimp, roast chicken or salmon. 89

Leyda Garuma Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2021 — Leyda Valley, Chile ($17.95)
Here’s a superior value. Leyda’s location, on the west side of the Chilean Coastal Range, just four kilometres from the Pacific, allows for slow ripening in cool conditions and a slightly salty brine to this Sauvignon Blanc. Increasing attention to sustainable vineyard practices seems to have only upped the quality from this multiple-award-winning winery. While still crisp and mouth-watering, there’s texture (20% was aged in oak barrels), depth and great length. And while the expected citrus notes resonate, the vegetal qualities also stand out—bell pepper, asparagus and herbs. The winery suggests pairing it up with artichokes, goat’s cheese or sundried tomatoes. But just drinking it on its own will do just fine. 91

Mezzacorona Pinot Grigio 2022 — Trentino, Italy ($16.45)
I tend not to be a Pinot Grigio sorta guy but I am a fan of this wine. That’s not because it boasts multiple layers of complexity or big ripe fruit, but because of its clean, steely smooth finish and mineral/apple/pear purity. It’s what I need Pinot Grigio to be—refreshing and faultless through its finish. It’s pretty much a can’t-miss for your guests looking for lighter whites. 89

Marisco Vineyards The Ned Sauvignon Blanc 2022 — Marlborough, New Zealand ($19.95)
New Zealand has traditionally offered excellent stuff in sub-$20 Sauvignon Blancs, but The Ned adds depth at this price point, owing largely to its Waihopai River Vineyard home, which features exceptional diversity across a single site consisting of three terraces formed by glacial movement over thousands of years. There’s still the vim and vigour one hopes for in a glass of NZ Sauvignon—admittedly there seems to be even more lime zest acidity than normal, overpowering some of the fleshiness that typically makes this wine stand out—but herbal notes and mid-palate minerality still lend it some sophistication. Serve it with salad and seafood (including oysters) or sip it with friends. 89

Stoney Ridge Pinot Grigio 2020 — Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($17.95)
The fruit is sourced from the Garrett Vineyard in the Four-Mile Creek sub-appellation. It has a ripe nose of peach, melon, apricot and nectarine. It’s a ripe Grigio on the palate with bright orchard fruits, subtle sweetness and zesty citrus balancing everything out on the finish. Great summer sipper. But the other three seasons will do just fine as well. 88 —Rick VanSickle

Vineland Estate Semi-Dry Riesling 2021 — Niagara Peninsula, Ontario ($15.95)
Winemaker Brian Schmidt definitely has two loves (in the wine world)—Cabernet Franc and Riesling. So there’s no wonder his two best general-list wines at the LCBO consist of these two Niagara staples. He sources the grapes for this Riesling from various Niagara vineyards and finishes the wine at around 8.5% abv. The nose is fresh, like a mountain-fed stream in early spring, and then it gushes lime, grapefruit, green apple and a lovely floral note. There is a tug of sweet-tart citrus on the palate, with juicy lime, zesty lemon and apple, with racy acidity keeping it singing through the finish. —Rick VanSickle

ROSÉ

The Foreign Affair Amarosé 2022 — Niagara, Ontario ($19.95) 
A consistently solid rosé with a mix of Gamay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc that is tweaked every year to maintain the style from vintage to vintage. It’s bright and fresh on the nose with pretty red berries, cranberries and a pinch of citrus. It’s dry but the red berries are ripe and vigorous with lemon/citrus accents and juicy acidity on the finish. 88 —Rick VanSickle

Gérard Bertrand Côte des Roses 2022 — Languedoc, France ($19.95)
This blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah is as fine a rosé as you can gift someone under the $20 mark. Beauty, as they say, is in the eye of the beholder, and this bottle creation—the winning result of a competition for Parisian design school students—will catch the eye of everyone. Turn the bottle upside down to reveal a rose-top design molded into the base. From bottom to top, the bottle tapers to its unique glass cap, with a minimalist label leaving all the attention for the bottle and its salmon pink contents. Of course, it’s what inside that counts most, and that begins with an aromatic nose of strawberry, cherry, redcurrant, cotton candy and a touch of citrus. The palate is elegant, and at just 2 g/L, it will also appeal to the sugar-conscious consumer. A perfect marriage for salmon dishes. 90

Pardevalles Rosado 2022 — León, France ($18.95)
If you could plug in a ruby, this is the colour you’d get. Made 100% from Spain’s Prieto Picudo grape, the nose has a soft herbal overtone in its raspberry/cranberry/strawberry/cranberry fruit combination. On the palate, there’s the initial tartness you’d expect from both the cranberry colour and its aromatics, although its edge softens as you go deeper into the glass. It’s approaching medium-bodied in weight and texture. I found it really growing on me. Perhaps it was the vibrant, alluring colour of the contents, which could well provide illumination for a nightclub in Amsterdam’s red-light district. 88+

Perrin Studio by Miraval 2022 — Provence, France ($19.95)
An exceptional vintage for this blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. Famille Perrin winery notes that the Cinsault and Tibouren were aged in stainless steel vats, while the Grenache and Rolle were partially vinified in tulip-shaped concrete vats with rounded bottoms. “This ovoid shape gives rise to a natural convection movement that suspends the lees, creating the same effect as a batonnage and gives the wine a lot of structure.” The aromatic notes are of blood orange, pink grapefruit, roses and subtle strawberry. The citrus elements carry forward onto the palate for a crisp but silky and polished finish. 13% abv. and quite dry at 2 g/L. 89+

RED

Anciano No. 7 Gran Reserva Rioja 2016 — Rioja, Spain (16.95)
This Tempranillo certainly works on the aesthetic gift-giving level, with Anciano’s telltale gold wire wrapping and papyrus-toned label depicting an ancient cellar. But there’s meat on the bone too, beginning with a perfumed nose of dark red fruit, balsamic vinegar, caramel and oak-infused spices. Its dry, at just 2g/L of residual sugar, with a respectable abv. of 13%. Brick-red on the edges, reflecting its barrel aging, this sits between medium- and full-bodied, while flowing elegantly across the palate. A nice pairing for lamb or cheeses. This wine, incidentally, earned a gold medal at last year’s Mundus Vini Wine Awards and a bronze at the 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards. 89+

Argento Estate Reserva Organic Malbec 2021 — Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina ($17)
I have a fondness for smoky, leathery, dark reds—of which this is one. Certified organic, sustainable and vegan, this features much more depth than Argento’s non-Reserva Organic Malbec, with a robust nose of black cherry, plum, blackberry, dark chocolate and tobacco. It rides between medium and bold in body, with medium tannins and very good length. 6 g/L of RS, and 14% abv. Try it with lamb burgers. 89

Badet-Clément Révélation Cabernet-Merlot 2020 — Pays d’Oc, Languedoc, France ($17.95)
A strong vintage for this easy drinking Cabernet/Merlot blend from the south of France. Just a mild waft of eucalyptus and allspice before dark wildberries and chocolate aromas emerge. The sweetish blackberry/blackcurrant fruit taste (residual sugar is 9 g/L) seems more about fruit ripeness than anything confected. Medium+ in body and medium (at most) in tannins, it’s velvety on the palate with a steadfast finish. It all makes for a flexible wine pairing—from pizza to beef dishes to sipping on its own. 13.5% abv. 89

Beronia Rioja Tempranillo 2021 — Rioja, Spain ($15.95)
2021 was a very good year for this medium-bodied Tempranillo. Think of cherry, raspberry and blackcurrant filtered through a tobacco leaf! Oak notes include chocolate, with eucalyptus floating deep in the glass. It’s a hair chalky in its finish of dense dark red fruit. 14% alc. 88+

Beronia Elaboración Rioja 2021 — Rioja, Spain ($18.95)
It’s not just the smoky character, but the richer dark red fruit (strawberry, prune, blackberry) and lively herb-infused aroma of rose petals that draw attention. My senses always tell me there’s a strong toasted oak element to this wine, but the company assures that no toasted barrels are employed. Fine-tannined and just shy of full bodied, this is a regular on the Top 40 list. 90

Confidencial Reserva Tinto 2017 — Lisboa, Portugal ($16.95)
Ten different grapes make their way into this delectably juicy blend, which spent six months in oak and about five years in the bottle prior to release. Extended maceration adds to the deep pigment. Its dark red fruit is primarily tart cherry driven. The price has jumped from $14.95 to $16.95 in the past year, but it’s still a rock solid bargain with a great finish. A very reliable crowd pleaser. 88+

El Petit Bonhomme 2020 — Spain ($16.95)
This bold blend of Monastrell, Garnacha and Syrah seems to improve by the vintage—this being the best yet. It features tart cherry, red currant and pepper, but edging into darker fruit territory (blackberry being the most obvious), with leather and forest floor notes. Its 14.5% abv. could provide a high alcoholic buzz factor, given its dangerous drinkability—particularly since that higher alcohol is not obvious at first blush—well, first nose, anyway. Tannins are medium+. The value is certainly medium+ as well. 89

Fantini Casale Vecchio Lot 23 Mont D’Abruzzo Organic — Abruzzo, Italy ($11)
The fruit edges from dark red into the black spectrum (cassis, blackberry, blackcurrant) along with dried flowers on the nose. This wine should theoretically fall apart moments after it hits the tongue at this low price, but it lingers—smooth, dark fruit and with just enough tannin and acidity to balance it all out. Phenomenal value. 88

Fantini Sangiovese 2022 — Puglia, Italy ($10.95)
Grown on the Adriatic coast of the Abruzzo, 10-20% of this wine is aged in oak, with the remainder in stainless steel—allowing the fruit to sing. It is toasty, spicy and lightly herbed, with ripe medium-dark cherry carrying the load from the fruit perspective. Medium-bodied and with soft tannins, it features good length for this price. Pair it up with ribs, pizza, pasta, hamburgers, lamb sliders… take your pick. Another tremendous value from this Italian winery. (10 g/L of residual sugar, 13% abv.) 88

Featherstone Red Tail Merlot 2021 — Niagara, Ontario ($19.95)
A ridiculously affordable price for a Merlot this good. The wine is aged for 10 months in 100% fine French oak barrels (25% new) from Tonnellerie Sirgue Nuits Saint Georges. There is an intriguing perfumed note on the nose with dark cherries, black raspberries, cassis, integrated spices and subtle earthy accents. It’s rich with some tannic structure and weight on the palate, followed by juicy red berries, anise, cassis and elegant spice notes through a long, lifted finish. This can age this for 5+ years and you can feel pretty damn happy you paid only $20 a bottle. 92 —Rick VanSickle

G. Marquis Pinot Noir 2021 — Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario ($19.95)
Produced by Magnotta Winery from 25-year-old Niagara-on-the-Lake vines, this is the only Pinot Noir on this year’s list—but it’s a very good one! Measuring a dry 3 g/L of residual sugar with a modest 12.5% abv., there’s absolutely no mistaking it as pure Pinot—either on the nose or on the palate. A cheery cherry leads a parade of aromas that includes raspberry and violets, with mushrooms and olives playing secondary roles. The mouthfeel is elegant, the fruit ripe but restrained, with a dusting of earth layered in there. (And it’s on sale for $17.95 until Nov. 5!) Keep a couple bottles around for Christmas turkey. 90+

LAN Crianza Rioja 2018 — Rioja, Spain ($19.95)
This Tempranillo (with a splash of 3% Mazuelo and 2% Garnacha) features cedar- and smoke-infused notes of black sour cherry, blackberry and baked caramel. It is aged 14 months in a mix of American oak staves and French oak bottoms (the use of which LAN is a pioneer), with an additional nine months in the bottle. Quite dry at just 2g/L, but still juicy and eminently drinkable at the same time. This is one of those wines that used to be a much better deal (it was $16.95 pre-pandemic), but still offers great value. 89

Luccarelli Negroamaro 2021 — Puglia, Italy ($10.90)
A complex nose of blackcurrant jam, blackberries, plums, herbs, cocoa and smoke, with 11 g/L of residual sugar and 13% abv. Soft tannins make it easily sippable on its own. This is simply too solid a wine at this absurdly low price not to include among the Top 40. 88

Luccarelli Primitivo 2021 — Puglia, Italy ($13.95)
From the best-rated vintage in Puglia since 2016, this medium-bodied Primitivo (known as Zinfandel here) features brooding dark ripe fruit, mild baking spice and an unusually lengthy finish for a wine at this affordable a price. There’s an elegance and purity to both the nose and palate. This is a really good one to trick guests into believing it’s something much more expensive. 11 g/L of residual sugar and 13.5% abv. 88+

M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon Villages 2021 ($18.95)
Here’s a medium+ bodied and earthy yet well-rounded blend of mostly Syrah along with Grenache and Carignan. It’s dark and mysterious, with the fruit ensconced between black cherry and blackberry. Just 2 g/L of residual sugar and a well-integrated 14% abv. Pair it up with bison burgers or lamb. This is another wine with multiple appearances on the Top 40. 90

MontGras Antu Carménère 2020 — Cachapoal Valley, Chile ($19.95)
“Antu” means “sun” in the Mapuche language, and there’s no shortage of heat and energy emerging from this bottle. A very expressive nose of black sour cherry, with plenty of pepper, eucalyptus, cedar and chocolate notes. Barely 3g/L means it’s on the very dry side, but the fruit is so rich and succulent that you’d never know. It does need time to air out, though, so definitely decant before serving. 90

Monte Antico 2019 — Tuscany, Italy ($16.95)
This blend of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon is quite dry and robust, with notes of leather, cedar and black cherry. Aged for a year in oak and well over a year in the bottle, it’s close to full bodied in the glass, with a lingering tannic grip, but decanting will notably soften that rugged edge. It’s going to be hard to ever knock this one off the Top 40 list. It does want a food pairing, though, from pasta and risotto to meats and cheeses. This is such a versatile wine. 89

Perez Cruz Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 — Maipo Valley, Chile ($17.95)
From the foot of the Andres comes this spicy, concentrated Cabernet, with dashes of Carménère, Syrah and Petit Verdot splashed in to round out the flavour profile. It says 14.l% abv. on the bottle, but the LCBO lists the alcohol at 14.5%, and I’m inclined to believe the latter, given the heat it exhibits out of the glass. Peppery black cherries, blackberries, cassis and bay leaves dominate the nose. Medium+ in body, it’s dry at just 4 g/L sugar, but the smooth tannins and rich fruit in the glass ensure a most enjoyable transfer from lips to throat. Careful—this one could buzz you in a hurry, considering its drinkability. 89

Rockway Vineyards Gamay Noir 2019 — Niagara Peninsula ($19)
A lighter-bodied and joyous Gamay with an inviting nose of wild raspberries, plums, black cherries and subtle earthy/spicy notes. It packs a punch on the palate with its fruit-laden array of red berries on a smooth texture, with nuanced spice notes and a mouth-watering finish. 89 —Rick VanSickle

Rustenberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 — Stellenbosch, South Africa ($19.95)
If you prefer your Cabernet a plush California style, then you’re probably better off not to look at the label and think of this as a Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s not in-your-face fleshy, with a high-alcoholic punch. What it is, though, is completely elegant. It opens with a strawberry/blueberry aroma, accompanied by chocolate and herbal cedar chest notes. On the palate, it’s medium bodied, with a lingering finish. It’s one of those wines I prefer more on Day Two. But just to be safe, decant it to help open it up. A dry 3 g/L of residual sugar, and a well-integrated 14% abv. 90

Tarapaca Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 — Maipo Valley, Chile ($18.95)
From a winery that takes the biodiversity of its land and product very seriously comes one of the stronger of the big reds on this list. Rustic blackberry, rhubarb, oak, clove, tobacco and herbal aromas lead the way to a luscious texture. On the palate, there’s an earthy blackberry and black cherry, with great balance throughout. Grill up a steak with this one. 14% abv., with 4 g/L of residual sugar. 90

Vicente Faria Bicycle Thief Red Blend (pouch) 1500 L — Portugal ($17.95)
I remember looking for something to complain about with this product when I first sampled it, because I had this built-in wine-snob bias toward ‘bag’ or ‘box’ wine. I was ready to jump all over it, thinking it was going to be too sweet in an attempt to cater to the North American market. (Except that it wasn’t. In fact, its 10 g/L of residual sugar actually rates it firmly in the “dry” category). So then I was ready to critique it for its inferior quality. But this blend of four Portuguese red grapes—Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional and Trincadeira—continues to hold its own. There’s a distinctive wood spice on the nose, along with dark red fruit. On the palate, it’s medium bodied (think of a bold Gamay Noir, given its light tannins and the peppery tinge to its wild red berry fruit that ranges from raspberry to prune). I’m not a big fan of Tetra Paks, but this compact pouch with its built-in spout lets you the enjoy wine by the glass while keeping it fresh up to six weeks after opening, the company declares. The rugged plastic-like packaging, which allows the wine to be chilled in 65% less time than a traditional bottle, also makes it safe for picnics and pools. Enjoy it with pizza, pasta and hamburgers off the grill. 87+

Vineland Estates Cabernet Franc 2021 — Vineland, Ontario ($15.95)
This is a perfect example of a rock-solid general list LCBO wine that not only represents a Niagara rock star grape, but also delivers a delightful wine at a price everyone can afford. It has everything you want from a Cabernet Franc on the nose: earthy/brambly raspberries, ripe cherries, subtle herbs and anise with wonderful purity and concentration. It’s bright and juicy on the palate with savoury red berries, licorice, earth, pepper, smooth tannins and a tangy finish. Best of all for consumers, this Cab Franc (as with Vineland’s Riesling) is consistent vintage to vintage. To make a wine this good at this price is a major accomplishment. 88 — Rick VanSickle

Wakefield Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2020 — South Australia ($19.95)
Crafted from Limestone Coast (67%) and Clare Valley (33%) grapes, this Aussie Cabernet bursts with blackcurrant, blackberry, blueberry, cassis, eucalyptus and dark chocolate on the nose. On the palate it’s medium-full in body, with refined tannins, lively acidity and that dark fruit really singing. 89