The price of a bottle of wine is oftentimes incongruent to the quality inside. A high price doesn’t mean it’s always great, and a low price doesn’t always mean it’s substandard.

And in the wake of an economy ravaged by a pandemic, people are understandably more price-sensitive than normal.

But while the appetite for alcohol has only increased in recent months, there remains a buckling point of affordability for most. In our social media experience, that number is $18. Below that, customers unfamiliar with a product require little incentive—perhaps a passing recommendation, an attractive label or the highest possible critic’s rating that the LCBO marketing folks could slap on the bottle. Above $18, most tend to desire a little more detailed information and reliable sources, be it the advice of an actual LCBO staff member or personal online research.

On a scale out of 100, we consider a minimum rating of 87 points to be required to qualify for this list.

And with 18 being a lovely golf number, we’ve again assembled two full rounds of superb values to satisfy all tastes, from bubbly to rosé, with selections from nine different countries included.

Ontario wine expert Rick VanSickle, publisher of Wines in Niagara, has once again added his expertise to the roster, with five of his own picks for the 2020 edition.

This is admittedly an Ontario-friendly list (with 33 of 36 wines available at the LCBO and the remainder available online from an Ontario winery). But, regardless of where you live in the world, if you can get your hands on these wines, we think you’ll agree that they’re exceptional values.

So without further ado, here is our 2020 edition of 36 Under 18.

 

THE WHITES

Babich Malborough Sauvignon Blanc 2018 — Malborough, New Zealand ($17.95)
At once fresh and lively in that classic Malborough style, with zesty gooseberry, tropical citrus and passionfruit, but with a little malolactic fermentation and production style that ensures a fuller, softer Sauvignon Blanc than typical for the region. The combination makes it ideal as a refreshing summer white, but with great food-pairing flexibility—especially oysters. Serious value here. 90 (Ted McIntyre)

Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap White 2018 — Svartland, Western Cape, South Africa ($13.95)
Slightly oaked (although the oak is distinctive on the finish), this is a midweight, harmonious blend of Viognier (providing texture and floral aromas), Chenin Blanc (giving it backbone, fruit and acidity) and Grenache Blanc (think grassy, dill-like notes). For the price, it’s a hard-to-beat recipe year in and year out, but a hot, dry 2018 growing season has concentrated the mix even further. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Featherstone Sauvignon Blanc 2019 — Vineland, Ontario ($17.95)
Twenty percent of the fruit was barrel-fermented in neutral Canadian oak barrels. It has an inviting nose of grapefruit, gooseberries, herbs, guava, kiwi and subtle spice notes. It’s fresh and vibrant on the palate with grapefruit, kiwi, gooseberries, integrated herbs and spice and mouth-watering acidity on the finish. 90 (Rick VanSickle)

Flat Rock Cellars Good Kharma Chardonnay 2018 — Jordan Station, Ontario ($16.95)
A portion of the sales from this wine goes to Feed Ontario, formerly the Ontario Association of Food Banks, which, to date, has provided over 120,000 meals for Ontarians in need. This unoaked style of Chardonnay has pure and fresh aromas of pineapple and peach and is loaded with tropical fruits and just a hint of creaminess. It’s clean and fresh on the palate with tropical fruits, peach and vibrancy through the finish. Good, honest Niagara Chardonnay. 88 (Rick VanSickle)

Ken Forrester Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2018 – Stellenbosch, South Africa ($17.95)
Depth and balance are once again the keynote speakers of the 2018 presentation of this perennially value-laden, midweight white. Melon and apple share the stage with notes of caramel, honey and a little vanilla courtesy of its subtle oaking. You’re unlikely to find any more stock of this vintage in Ontario, but Marthinus van der Vyver, who manages North America for the winery, says “the 2019 (vintage) is very similar to the 2018, as the weather was pretty much the same, as well as the yield. Ken (Forrester) and the team are doing a great job at making this wine in such a consistent level of quality and value. We recently released some of the Reserve Chenin 2007, which we had in our library stock, and it was amazing to see how well this wine ages.” The 2019 vintage should hit store shelves within the month. 91 (Ted McIntyre)

Marisco The Ned Sauvignon Blanc — Malborough, New Zealand ($16.95)
A great vintage has imbued this with intense notes of lime, gooseberry and passionfruit that leap out of the glass, with a little waft of bell peppers and herbs following closely on their heels. A lovely acidity, as expected, but there’s that typical fleshy body of The Ned that sustains it to a long, crisp, mineral-laden finish. 90 (Ted McIntyre)

Matahiwi Pinot Gris 2019 — Wairarapa, New Zealand ($17.95)
Master Sommelier Sabato Sagaria has referred to Pinot Grigio as “basically Italian for water.” But Matahiwi’s Pinot Gris is anything but. Crafted in the more robust Alsace, France style, it is complex, soft in texture and exhaling melon, underripe pear, nectarine and even some grassy notes—a wine with the character to stand up for itself and not get pushed around by other grapes. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Susana Balbo Crios Torrontes 2019 — Argentina ($14.95)
Iconic Argentine winemaker Susana Balbo was a pioneer in transforming the traditional Torrontés grape into a popular variety from her native land. Expect aromas of lemon/lime, jasmine, pine needles and white flowers, with a snappy acidity and enough texture to linger with a refreshing finish. Great pairing for spicy Asian cuisine or ceviche. But it’s also just fine on its own. 88 (Ted McIntyre)

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2019 — Malborough, New Zealand ($17.95)
A silver medallist at the 2019 Decanter World Wine Awards, this is a classic expression of both Malborough and Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc, with grapes split between the Wairau Valley (citrus and tropical fruits) and Awatere Valley (lemongrass, herbs and hot peppers). Villa tends to give their grapes a little extra hang time, which helps develop the fruit. The result here is a wonderful balance of fruit, acidity and herbaceousness, with a clean, palate-cleansing lime/guava/grapefuit to get you drooling, and notes of green apple and pear in supporting roles. It’s even touch smoother and longer-finishing than recent vintages. 90 (Ted McIntyre)

Vineland Estates Semi-Dry Riesling 2018 — Vineland, Ontario ($14.95)
The price never seems to change on this great value and, fortunately, the same goes for its quality. The 2018 vintage was not an easy one for Niagara winemakers, with Riesling grapes having to be picked early due to wet weather, but the fruit is still rich, and savvy winemaking has ensured a round, bright edition that evokes ripe Fuji apple and lemon/lime zest. It’s off-dry, but a clean wet slate finish keeps any sweetness in check. Wanna mix it up? Try this with a spicy, meaty pizza. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Yalumba The Y Series Viognier 2019 — South Australia, Australia ($15)
There’s a fine line when it comes to picking Viognier. A little late and you get a flabby wine. But then Yalumba has pioneered this grape in the region, and this has been called the best-value Viognier on earth for a reason. A blend from both cool- and warm-climate vineyards in South Australia, its indigenous yeasts help to fashion an elaborate brew. The nose ranges from lemon drops and orange blossoms to honeysuckle and white flowers, while the palate balances a silky texture with zesty tropical fruit expressions of pineapple, pear and lemon. Taste more like a four-year-old white than a new release. 90 (Ted McIntyre)

 

THE SPARKLING

Bottega Vino Dei Poeti Brut Rosé — Italy ($14.95)
This is a moussey prosecco with a strawberry perfume and a touch of dry minerality to give it some sophistication. Its crowd-pleasing Pinot Noir/Raboso blend rides deftly between dry and off-dry. An ideal summer patio bubbly at a moderately safe 11.5% alc. 88.5 (Ted McIntyre)

Segura Viudas Brut Reserva Cava — Northeast Spain ($15.95)
This is a Cava, so the second fermentation is in the bottle instead of a tank, meaning more of a Champagne-type finesse. Blended from 12 different wines, this dry bubbly leads off with Granny Smith apple, pear and tropical fruits, with notes of honey and toast. There’s some lime and minerality added to the equation on the palate, where a soft, creamy mousse finishes dry and long. Great price for what you’re getting here. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Villa Sandi Prosecco — Treviso, Italy ($15.95)
A very well-priced dry Prosecco that once again delivers. Aromas of pears, golden apples and wild flowers receive a sprinkling of lemon/lime zest to refresh. There’s even some peach on the palate, and a clean finish. 88 (Ted McIntyre)

 

THE ROSÉS

2027 Cellars Gamay Rosé Wismer Vineyard 2019 (Fox Croft Block) — Jordan Station, Ontario ($18, online ordering)
“This has a saltiness that I love, but I don’t know where it comes from,” says winemaker Kevin Panagapka. It shows a lighter colour of pale salmon in the glass and comes in an attractive package with a black label on clear glass. It shows pretty red berries, plums, light herbs and bramble on the nose. Seems redundant to say this, but it’s bone dry on the palate with crushed red berries and flinty salinity in a fresh, vibrant, vivacious style. Lip-smacking good. 90 (Rick VanSickle)

Malivoire Ladybug Rosé 2019 — Beamsville, Ontario ($16.95)
When Malivoire winemaker Shiraz Mottiar lost a large supply of Cabernet Franc in 2018 after ownership of two farms changed hands, he came up with a lively, balanced blend of 45% Cab Franc, 35% Gamay Noir and 20% Pinot Noir to continue to fashion his hugely popular Ladybug rosé. Thanks to help from a couple local wineries, he was able to return to his traditional Cab Franc-dominated recipe for the 2019 vintage, with 65% of the wine composed of the grape, and 27% Gamay and 8% Pinot Noir rounding it out. “I’ve always believed that Cab Franc provided the best structure to build on for our Ladybug,” Mottiar notes. “We are always going for that fruity expression of ripe berry fruit with a liveliness from good acidity. That was easily achieved in a year like 2019, with loads of acid.”
Indeed, the just-released edition—a ripe watermelon hue in the glass with a trace of watermelon on the palate—is an essentially dry, refreshing burst of strawberry and cherry. As usual with Mottiar, the taste is not as sweet as the aromas might suggest, and a grapefruit-like strain on the finish wipes the palate clean. Alas, “the Cab Franc supply I got for 2019 will be short lived,” Mottiar concedes, so look for a return to a more balanced blend in 2020. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

THE REDS

Beronia Tempranillo Elaboración Especial 2017 — Rioja, Spain ($16.95)
I do adore the intriguing, bonfire toasted plum/cherry nature of this wine, as well as the aromatic complements of coffee, eucalyptus, dark chocolate and vanilla. Smoked black cherry dominates the palate of this intense, dark Tempranillo. The finish is long and layered. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Calamus Ball’s Falls Red 2017 — Jordan Station, Ontario ($17, online ordering)
In many ways, this is the flagship red at Calamus and smartly priced. It’s mostly a blend of Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon with a fruit-laden nose of rich raspberries, cherries, herbs and integrated spice. It’s smooth and delicious on the palate with a basket of red fruits, earth, balancing spice notes, light herbs and a vibrant finish. 89 (Rick VanSickle)

Castaño Hecula Monastrell 2017 — Yecla, Spain ($14.95)
A 100% Monastrell (Mourvèdre in France), this is a vegan-friendly, medium+ bodied red. Think smoked, stewed plums, dried red fruit and red licorice. Six months of aging in predominantly French barrels has helped integrate the concoction and soften the tannins. 88 (Ted McIntyre)

Chateau LaBarrade Malbec 2017 — Cahors, France ($13.85)
From the native home of Malbec in Southcentral France, this vintage straddles somewhere between midweight and full-bodied. While a tad leaner than what you might see out of Argentina, there’s lots here, opening with a forest floor nose of eucalyptus, anise, blackberry, black currant and smoke, and winding down with an earthy finish. A great match for a smoked meat sandwich. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Cono Sur 2018 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon/Carménère/Syrah — Chile ($13.95)
Half Cab Sauv and one-quarter each of Syrah and Carmenere, this is a wonderfully symbiotic relationship at a stupid-cheap price. A combination of oak and steel aging contributes to both structure and fresh dark red fruits, with accents of Caffè Mocha. Should have fairly universal appeal to red wine fans. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Domaine Autrand Côtes Du Rhône 2017 — Rhône, France ($15.95)
There’s the initial heat of the 15% alcohol of this intense 80% Grenache/20% Syrah blend, but it blows off to reveal a concentrated fruit that lies midway between prune and plum. Pepper seeps through during the long finish. Tannins are noticeable, but purely for structure. Pretty much full bodied. Superb value. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Emiliana Novas Carmenere / Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 — Colchagua Valley, Chile ($15.95)
A juicy, dry, earthy, herb-laden organic wine. A bed of blackberries and blueberries with a wink of plum to add seduction. It rides the scale somewhere between medium and full bodied, with medium tannins and medium-plus acidity making it an easy food-pairing wine. Holds together nicely through the finish. Everything on this Top 36 list rates highly on the value chart, but this one’s really up there. 89.5 (Ted McIntyre)

Finca Los Maza Reserva Malbec 2016 — Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina ($17)
Mid- to full-bodied and smooth, there’s a concentrated ripe blackberry and violets to the nose, with a framing of medium tannins. The fruit slowly and steadily emerges from the glass, as its 14.1% alc. content warms the palate. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

LAN Crianza 2016 — Rioja, Spain ($16.95)
Crianza is a Spanish wine classification indicating a wine has been aged for at least two years, with one of those spent in oak casks. In the case of this Tempranillo, LAN’s most famous wine, that aging began with stainless steel tank fermentation, followed by 14 months in hybrid oak barrels, followed by nine more months of bottle conditioning. The result is a mid- to full-bodied red. The nose starts off slow, but eventually notes of spicy plum, smoky dark red cherry, stewed strawberry, vanilla and cinnamon can be coaxed up the glass, all framed by medium tannins. 88 (Ted McIntyre)

M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Côtes du Roussillon-Villages 2017 — Languedoc-Roussillon, France ($15.95)
This perennially great value from Southern France—a hair short of full-bodied—is a blend of predominantly Grenache and Syrah with about 10% Carignan to add complexity. Hand-harvested and aged without any oak means that the fruit really shines. But it’s well-layered with an earthy combo of black cherry, blackberry. There’s a 14% alc. content, but it’s hardly noticed, which is good and bad, since this can disappear quickly in the glass. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

Michele Chiarlo Le Orme 2016 Barbera d’Asti — Piedmont, Italy ($15.95)
A great vintage for this ruby red and violet-hued Barbera from northwest Italy’s Michele Chiarlo Winery. Gathered from a selection of four vineyards, the grapes are steel-fermented with a minimum of 16 months of aging. Dried, earthy fruits including dark cherry and currants blur the line between red and dark fruit. There’s a Cab Franc-like richness here, with medium tannins at most. 90 (Ted McIntyre)

Monte Antico 2015 — Tuscany, Italy ($15.95)
Yes, you read that right. It’s a 2015. Recognizing that it was a particularly good vintage, Monte Antico’s Ontario agent, Woodman Wines & Spirits, secured a extra-large batch of this Tuscan Sangiovese a couple years back, meaning it’s still in the marketplace. Which is great news for red-wine drinkers, as it just keeps maturing—and it already had a year on oak and nearly 12 months of bottle aging before being released by the winery. Still bursting with acidity, its juicy blend consists of 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet and 5% Merlot. Look for a complex variety of aromas to this great midweight arrangement, including cherry lipstick, raspberry, redcurrant and some cranberry tartness to round it out. 88.5 (Ted McIntyre)

Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna 2017 — Sardinia, Italy ($17.95)
There’s an unusual level of complexity here for a sub-$20 wine, some of that attributable to a healthy aging process that includes two years in large Slavonian oak barrels and several more months in the bottle. Medium-plus in body, this Cannonau (the Sardinian name for Grenache) is rich and elegant, with cherry, red currant and rose petal notes supported by tertiary aromas of leather, smoke and vanilla bean. Medium tannins and a lengthy finish. 91 (Ted McIntyre)

Tarapaca Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 — Maipo Valley, Chile ($13.90)
Deep ruby in the glass and bursting with acidity, this juicy Maipo Valley Cab has seen 60% of the wine aged in contact with French oak for 10 months, with the remainder kept in stainless steel tanks to extract the fresh and fruity component. The fruit is a blueberry/blackberry/strawberry blend, with aromas of forest floor, menthol, clove, tobacco and fig. If you’re looking for full-bodied, it’s probably not your thing. But quite good quality for the price. Pair it up with pork chops. 88 (Ted McIntyre)

Tawse Gamay 2018 — Vineland, Ontario ($18, online ordering)
Lighter in colour (as are most 2018s) with a pure and inviting nose of red plums, strawberry/rhubarb and light savoury notes. This is a highly gulpable Gamay on the palate with notes of plums, herbs, red fruits, a touch of spice, soft tannins and vibrancy on the finish. 88 (Rick VanSickle) 

Tedeschi Capitel Nicalò Valpolicella Superiore 2018 — Veneto, Italy ($17.95)
A blend of 30% each of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, with the remaining 10% a variety of four other grapes, this is a rich, earthy composition of dark cherry, red currants, tobacco, black olives and spice, with an acidity that helps it hit another level with food. The concentration of the recipe owes to the grapes being dried for a month, while up to 18 months of aging in Slavonian oak brings it all together. Tedeschi even notes that you can age this from 7-10 years. Tannins are restrained and the 14% alcohol well integrated. Worth much more than the price tag. 90.5 (Ted McIntyre)

Trapiche Pure Black Malbec — Uco Valley, Argentina ($15.95)
One hundred percent unoaked, there’s a deep garnet/purple in the glass, with notes of blueberry, blackberry and black cherry (hey, it’s called Black for a reason). Add in some mocha, leather and eucalyptus. Quite smooth on the palate, where cassis joins the collage of deep, dark flavours. 89 (Ted McIntyre)

The Vinecrafter Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 — Western Cape, South Africa ($9.95)
To say this is an exceptional wedding wine (given the remarkably low price) is to do it an injustice. Made by KWV, one of South Africa’s oldest wineries, the 2018 vintage was a topsy turvy one defined by low yields and small berries, but producing notable concentration, with four months of oak to provide a little structure. Expect blackberries, blackcurrants, violets, cassis and cedar. 14% alc. 87.5 (Ted McIntyre)

Wakefield Promised Land Cabernet 2018 — South Australia, Australia ($14.95)
A mouthwateringly juicy midweight Cab that quickly softens and intensifies with oxygen and time. Eucalyptus, blueberry, blackberry and cedar, it’s mouthwateringly juicy. Not the texture of a high-end Cab, to be sure, but lots for the money. 88 (Ted McIntyre)

Xavier Vignon Côtes du Rhône 2018 — Rhone, France ($17.95)
Dry but still juicy with smooth tannins, medium-plus in body but still well textured, this traditional Rhône blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre has an almost port-like concentration on a nose that’s rich in dried plum, cherry and blackberry. There’s also a wild garrigue accent as well, a common attribute to Southern France reds. The 14.5% alc. is quite well concealed in the mix. 89 (Ted McIntyre)